55. Mosey around in Mexico City

Long form documentation of where I ate/did in CDMX

Jan 21, 2025

Happy 55th newsletter!

Billy and I checked off one of the top destinations on our travel list: Mexico City. CDMX is renowned for its world-class culinary scene, and in just four days, I was only able to mildly scratch the surface. I planned and curated this trip as an opportunity to explore the city’s wide range of ingredients, dishes, and regional cuisines. A lot of food was eaten—so much, in fact, that I almost wished for a second stomach as a Christmas gift.

Logistics: It was a four-day trip. We stayed in the Polanco neighborhood and primarily used Uber for transportation. I can speak and understand about 20 words in Spanish in total, enough for the most basic communication, but otherwise, I relied on speaking English to navigate.

Savories

Club Tengo Hambre— This is the surprise element I believe we all need: a street food tour around the central area of CDMX led by a local guide. I give this a solid 10/10 recommendation—it’s worth every penny. I first heard about it from Café Hailee (or Hailee Catalano), who raved about the experience. The tour cost about $90 per person, which covered all the food stops, including seven tacos and three different treat stands. Each food item was perfectly spaced out with a good amount of walking in between to help with digestion and provide some sightseeing. While this might not be as thrilling for the seasoned CDMX travelers, it’s an excellent option for people like me, who don’t speak much of the language and know little about the history of tacos beforehand.

Taqueria Orinoco— Starting out in Monterrey, this al pastor taqueria is now taking Mexico City by storm with multiple locations across the city. Depending on the time of day, you might find lines stretching down the block—a true testament to the hype. We ordered the trompo, res, and chicharrón on corn tortillas. Everything, from the tacos to the little pots of condiments, was absolutely delicious.

TICUCHI— A swanky restaurant offering a contemporary take on traditional dishes, with a focus on showcasing the vegetables of Mexico. The ambiance is exceptional, as are the drinks and a few of the meals. However, compared to all my other dining experiences in Mexico City, I’d have to say this one ranks somewhat low on my list.

Eno— A simple take on traditional Mexican breakfast and lunch dishes, elevated and modernized to match the city’s vibrant energy. The breakfast-brunch-lunch rush can make finding a seat tricky, but if you manage to snag one like I did, I recommend the chilaquiles verdes, picadillo, and a michelada.

Contramar— An upscale seafood eatery with exceptional ingredients, ambiance, dishes, and service. I still dream about every single dish I had that day and was honestly a little upset that I couldn’t order more. The tuna tostadas left me speechless, even after hearing countless rave reviews about them. To my surprise, the octopus aguachile and al pastor fish tacos were equally mind-blowing. Make sure to save room for dessert—you’ll regret it if you don’t. We ordered the fig tart, and I still think about it to this day. Easily one of my absolute favorite meals of 2024!

Choza— A mysterious and covert Thai-inspired eatery tucked away in the Roma Norte neighborhood. With no reservations and no signage, the process was a bit confusing—undoubtedly made more challenging since neither of us speaks the language. In brief, it’s a two-level experience: the first level offers a partial menu, and once you’re finished there, they guide you to the rooftop level. The rooftop features an open-fire grill, casual ordering, and vinyl records playing in the background. By the time we reached the rooftop, I was already a bit full. Still, I made room for the pork cheeks, and I’m so glad I did—they were phenomenal. Address: 194 Monterrey Ave. Open Saturdays and Sundays from 3–9 PM.

*Honest Hour*: Don’t get me wrong—everything I had at Choza (peanut/herby rice bowls with chicharrón and the pork cheeks) was absolutely excellent. The texture and flavors of the grilled pork cheeks were especially outstanding. That said, having grown up with some of the best Asian foods and living in the U.S., where these flavors are quite accessible, I felt less wowed than others might be. The somewhat awkward and flustering experience at Choza also impacted the overall vibe. My advice? Come with a hungry group, go with the flow, and stick to ordering drinks on the first level. This way, you’ll save your appetite for the real highlights upstairs!

Pujol— The long-awaited highlight of my itinerary: this was my first Michelin-star dining experience, and I was thrilled to secure a reservation at Pujol. The entire experience felt like something out of The Menu—from the presentation and service to the cost and dress code. Pujol offers two dining experiences: a traditional tasting menu and tacos omakase. We opted for the traditional tasting menu since it was our first time here. The food was incredibly innovative and unlike anything I’ve ever tasted. I loved that they incorporated unique ingredients I wouldn’t typically encounter on the streets of Mexico without some guidance (e.g., ant mayonnaise). As someone who yearns for these kinds of culinary adventures, I was in awe. That said, if you’re not into tasting menus or intensive “Michelin-type” dining, you’ll likely still be happy with the other fantastic eateries Mexico City has to offer.

Taqueria Cariñito— A hole-in-the-wall spot serving fantastic Asian-fusion tacos. It’s unfussy and makes for a great mid-adventure pick-me-up. We tried the pork belly tacos, cochinita Thai, and siu yuk—all were delicious. That said, it’s worth mentioning that the service was quite slow and unfriendly, which was a bit of a letdown.

Kai Sushi Bar— Admittedly, this was a weird one. But, Asian culture—specifically Japanese—has a strong presence in Mexico City, a result of post-World War II influences. This is evident in the abundance of Asian-fusion cuisine, as seen in spots like Taquería Cariñito and Choza. After four days of indulging in nothing but tacos and pastries, sushi felt like a refreshing choice. Plus, where in the U.S. can you find a quality omakase for 40 bucks?

Sweets

Odette— Absolutely worth the wait for all the fresh and yummy baked goods. It’s also worth mentioning that you can take your treats and enjoy them on the cozy patio, nestled in the cutest corner of La Condesa. Don’t miss out on the raspberry kouign amann!

Panaderia Rosetta— One of the most beautiful bakeries I’ve ever laid my eyes on. If that’s not convincing enough, let it be the infamous guava roll that convince you to come. I had my eye on a few other treats as well, but Billy had to talk me out of buying more pastries than I could possibly handle.

saint— Another panadería, though on a much smaller caliber compared to Odette and Rosetta. I decided to stop by before my departure to pick up some conchas to take home. Let me tell you, they are nothing short of special.

Other fun things

Tierra Seca, Mezcaleria— A tiny, spooky mezcal spot located right next to Contramar. We stumbled in after our dinner at Contramar since it was still early, and we weren’t ready for the night to end. The staff offered everything from mezcal flights to creative takes on traditional cocktails with a mezcal take. We opted for the cocktails, and all four were thoroughly enjoyed.

Mercado de Artesanias La Ciudadela— A marketplace located in the central area, offering all things artisanal, from ceramics to the typical souvenirs. As a trinket grandma myself, I found this spot to have the most superior selection of ceramics, ancient sculptures, and art—all at the best price points!

Salón Malafama— A very specific and niche recommendation for Pittsburgh Steelers fans visiting Mexico City. This turned out to be a surprisingly wonderful experience. Got to witness how much a mutual bond transcends the boundaries of language barriers.

No bad coffee club— Another very specific recommendation because this is a Greek coffee shop located in CDMX. See what I mean by specific. Great Greek frappe though!

Pingüino México— Well-curated artisanal shop carrying crafts, sculptures, textiles and arts from all over Mexico. Price is just fine, but definitely a great selection for gifts and souvenirs. They can also ship internationally if you wish.

Other saved places I didn’t go, but really wish I did

Of course, even with a planned itinerary, things happen that I couldn’t go to some of the places on that list. Many places that I am missing out happened to close on random days like Tuesdays or Wednesdays, so just keep that in mind.

🎪 Restaurants: La Docena, Maximo, Expendio de Maiz Sin Nombre, Gonzalitos, El Cardinal, El Pescadito

🎪 Bars: Loup and Hugo

🎪 Sightseers: Biblioteca Vasconcelos, La Laguna S.A. de C.V., and flying over the Teotihuacan pyramids on hot air balloons.